Archive for February, 2009
Results of yesterday’s tutorial…
Saturday, February 28th, 2009
Well. Yesterday’s post was the result of several emails that I’ve received from one reader. She was having trouble with the collar of the coat. So, I thought that it would be helpful to work through the coat with pictures and text as a guide for her and possibly for others who may be finding it difficult.
This morning I received an email from her. I’ll just post it here so that you can see…(directly posted from email, omitting her name):
i just wanted to write one last time. i have ripped this out and started over about 5 times now. i realize after reading your blog and seeing that other people were saying that they thought your pattern was “screwed up”. I personally never said that and all along i was thinking it was me. but now i see clearly the problem here. you need to admit to yourself that the pattern is unclear. when you gave your instructions on the blog i don’t think you went through all the steps and you don’t say exactly what is supposed to be done the whole way through the problem area and i can attest to that because now i have ripped out again after your instruction. i believe you are leaving out a big step and it might be at the point where you say to do it four times. do what four times. i really don’t know what the problem is exactly because i haven’t gotten it right yet. i guess it would be interesting to know if your explanation has helped people. i am sick of ripping this out and what started out as a cool fun project is turning out to be a nightmare for me. one more try for me and then i’m gonna make a straight collar and forget the short row shaping. a little background on me is i have been knitting now for about 10 years. i know how to follow instructions.
My response:
[Reader],
I spent hours writing that blog post, taking photos, and trying to go step by step through the instructions.
I’m sorry that it didn’t meet your standards. I’m afraid there’s nothing more that I am able to so on this for you.
Have a great day!
Stefanie.
Fortunately, I also received a lovely Ravelry note about the same sweater:
Stephanie,
I finished the tweed coat this week. I LOVE it! I think the confusion on the collar is that until you finish the second increase row the pattern is off by 1 stitch. But when you do the second increase row in that set–everything gets back on track.
I will post a picture this weekend but I wore it to my knitting group today and everyone loved it. Thanks for a great pattern. Yvonne
And I also see on ravelry 
that several people have already finished the sweater and have smiley faces to indicate that they’re pleased with the result.
So, while I didn’t do much for the first reader’s zen quotient, I hope that I did help clarify things for a few people! Thanks for reading, and I really do hope that you all have a great day!
Posted in Book Talk, tips and tricks, Q&A, Bring Back the Zen | 11 Comments »
Working through the Tweed Coat collar: part 1
Friday, February 27th, 2009
Welcome back!
Today we’re going to start the collar of the Tweed Coat (see yesterday’s post for an introduction.)
I’m making the 3rd size, since that’s the size the last person to email me about this was making.
I’m also making just the collar…so I cast on sts while you will be picking up and knitting yours as per the pattern instructions.
Here we go…starting on page 99 of Glam Knits.
I’m skipping ahead to page 102 to get my cast on #s.
The instructions say to pick up and knit 58 sts along the right front edge, 56 along the cast on edge, and 58 for the left front. This does indeed equal the 172 sts that I will cast on.
I have placed markers between the above sections (after 58, then 56 sts) of my caston because it will help me later when I have to determine which sts are part of which section.
Next, we simply work 6 rows in k2p2 rib:
Now, we are asked to work one row in alternating rib. If you look at the stitch pattern definition on page 100, it says to work the first 4 rows such that you start with k2…but, since we are asked to begin working in alternating rib…I start here on a P2…so that I’m actually starting to work in stitch pattern. Otherwise, I just keep working in k2p2 ribbing.
This brings us to the “SHAPE CENTER OF COLLAR” section, in which we begin short row shaping.
Continuing to work in alternating rib stitch, we start our short rows.
Work to 5 sts after 3rd marker, wrap and turn, work to 5 sts after next marker wrap and turn.
Here’s what that looks like:
I’ve worked for 5 sts past the marker, and will wrap the next stitch, turn my work to the other side, and then work 5 sts after the next marker, wrap the next (6th) st, and turn.
So you do that…and then in brackets is:
[work to 6 sts before wrap of row before previous row, wrap and turn] 4 times.
You knit until there are 6 sts left before the wrapped stitch, then wrap stitch #1 and turn. And do that 4 times.
Each time you do a short row in this way, you’re working over fewer and fewer sts at the back neck.
**NOTE: A point of debate here might be that I say in the instructions to knit to 6 sts BEFORE the wrapped stitch, which would mean that instead of having sts numbered 1 - 6 in the image above, I’d have 1 - 7 (including the wrapped st.) Either way you choose to count will work. We are simply adding height here, and whether it’s 2 sts broader or narrower will not make much difference in the end.
After you do the above process 4 times, your work will look like this:
You have essentially inserted a lens-shaped piece of fabric into the back neck of your collar. This adds height to the back of the collar, so that it hugs the neck, rather than splatting out flat onto your shoulders and back.
In the photo below, I outlined our newly inserted fabric, so that you can see exactly what it looks like:
You also notice that within the outline, we are able to keep in stitch pattern as we go back and forth doing our short rows. BUT…there is some irregularity in the stitch pattern when we compare it to the surrounding fabric.
I *think* that this is what’s causing people to send emails about the pattern being “screwed up” when, really, it’s just a matter of having to insert a non-linear (or non-rectangular) piece of fabric into a rectilinear stitch pattern.
You WILL HAVE some partial pattern repeats in this section, which means that some of your ribs will be longer and some will be shorter. It’s just the result of working your short rows.
Once you finish this section, you are asked to work one row even, working remaining wraps together with wrapped stitches. All you have to do is work that row from the beginning in stitch pattern. By that, I mean that if you start at the right hand edge, and are supposed to begin your alternating rib stitch with a p2, do that. And work in p2k2 ribbing all the way across. (If you’re on a k2 section, start with k2 and do a k2p2 rib all the way across.) You’ll re-establish the alternating rib pattern, and be able to continue through the next stage of the collar shaping.
Let’s go on to that “SHAPE COLLAR” section together:
Row one says to [work to marker, LLI, slip marker, RLI] 4 times work to end.
So, you work across your fabric in st patt as established in the row above. At each marker, you increase 2 stitches.
Row 2 says to work even, working inc sts in alternating rib.
What you want to do in these 2 rows is to keep your 2 new sts in the same st patt as the two surrounding them. The markers are placed so that they’re in between two “like” sts…so (k m k) or (p m p). When you increase, increase to make (k k m k k) or (p p m p p).
In the photo above, there are 2 k sts on either side of the marker (k k m k k)
In the next increase round, we increase so that we go back to our alternating rib pattern (k k p m p k k) or (p p k m k p p). I’ve outlined this in the photo below, in which I’ve completed an increase set and worked one half alternating rib st patt reapeat (4 rows.)
Here’s what the collar (to this point) looks like from a broader perspective:
Any inconsistencies in the stitch pattern are due to the insertion of our curved or lens-shaped area of fabric into a rectangular stitch pattern, and are really not that bad on the grander scheme of the whole collar.
The rest of the collar is pretty straightforward.
Now that you know what the basic setup is like, maybe you’ll even find a smoother way to insert your short rows in stitch pattern and share your mods with us!
Posted in Book Talk, Patterns, tips and tricks, Q&A, Bring Back the Zen | 1 Comment »
Tweed Coat: Let’s cast on together!
Thursday, February 26th, 2009
I’ve seen a few posts and received a couple of questions about the Tweed Coat from Glam Knits.
I think we should work through the collar together.
There are a few issues at play that seem to be giving knitters pause.
For those of you who are currently paused…you’ll have to hold on a little bit longer. But…for those Tweed Coat knitters of the future…TADA!
OK. The aforementioned issues are:
1) All over stitch pattern.
2) Short rows to shape collar’s back neck (in stitch pattern.)
3) Increases within collar (in stitch pattern) to help it lay flat.
An all-over st patt is no big deal, the whole jacket is patterned. But the thing that’s messing people up is having to short row in pattern, and then also to do increases for the collar shaping. And it’s making them think there’s an error in the pattern. SO…we need to work through it and find out!
I’m going to wind some yarn and be right back (tomorrow) with progress photos and explanation.
Posted in Patterns, tips and tricks, Q&A, Bring Back the Zen | 2 Comments »
Updated the Fitted Knits errata
Wednesday, February 25th, 2009
Alexandra has been going over the edits for Fitted Knits and sent me an update, so I updated the errata (link at left.)
Posted in Book Talk | No Comments »
Please think a healing thought for Marvin Today.
Wednesday, February 25th, 2009
My father in law, Marvin, had open-heart surgery at the Mayo Clinic today! It was a very long procedure, but he is resting now in ICU and seems to be doing well.
Thank you for your thoughts and prayers for a speedy and complete recovery.
Mazie and I are planning to head out to IA to help out as soon as they are back home.
Posted in events | No Comments »
LB collection swatches.
Monday, February 23rd, 2009
Around the time of my podcast chat with Zontee of Lion Brand Yarns, I received a sampler of some of the new LB Collection yarns.
I had a chance to play with a few over the weekend. Lion doesn’t have a special page just for this collection, so I’m adding links to the individual info pages.
Here’s my swatch of the Superwash Merino:
I knit the swatch in stockinette, then in seed stitch, then a ribbed cable. I used a 5 instead of the recommended 6. Superwash yarns can sometimes feel sort of over-treated or almost like an acrylic. The LB superwash, though, is soft and lofty. As I was knitting it, it felt thin as it ran through my fingers, but it really sproinged up when knit. I think this would be great as a DK sock yarn, and also for baby stuff! The stitch definition is really nice, as you can see, so would do well with any textured pattern.
This is the Cotton Bamboo.
You know how some cotton (or bamboo or hemp) yarns can feel like string and hurt your hands as you use it? At first, this one LOOKED to me like it would, but once I cast on and started working with it, I really liked it. It has a really nice loft, so it creates a drapey, soft fabric. (I started a reclamation scarf with it, of course!) It has a subtle sheen and a really nice texture.
The next one that I’m going to try out is the LB collection wool stainless steel. My friend Cindy gave me a partial cone of habu wool that I’m going to carry along with this. See how well the colors coordinate? I can’t wait to try it! (have to meet a couple deadlines, then I can play!) 
Oh, and here’s the Organic Wool. 
I think that the circle shrug from Glam Knits: 25 Designs For Luxe Yarns
Posted in yarn reviews, Book Talk | No Comments »
Last of the Bamboo is posted!
Friday, February 20th, 2009
I’m posting the last batch of my inauguration day dyeing, “Color of Hope” bamboo on Etsy today…
And that’s the last you’ll hear about bamboo yarn from me for a while (whew!)
In case you’re not on her mailing list, I have a new Stitch Diva pattern out:
So far, it’s just a preview, and should be available soon.
In other news, things are really busy right now! I’ve got a book deadline on Sunday, and am working away on my Fall 09 Mission Falls stuff. Also lots of things percolating, of course.
In Mazie news, she has so many new teeth! She’s worked hard for them. We are all very, very tired.
Posted in just chit chat, Patterns, etsy | No Comments »
One designer’s process
Tuesday, February 17th, 2009
OK, so you know I’ve coordinated a couple of the newer Mission Falls knitting pattern books? I’ll show you how I go about submitting a design, and then working up the sample garment.
This is just MY method…others will do this differently.
SO, it all starts with a sketch and a swatch:
Since it’s my job to coordinate this booklet, I wait to decide on my own yarn colors until I plan the color palette, and see what the other designers submit. Then I determine which colors everyone else’s designs will use, and fill in my own colors last. I usually try to work with the designers on their color choices, and not use too heavy a hand in choosing things for them.
Since this is a booklet for one yarn company, I need to look at fashion sites, determine what “the” fall color palette is, and then interpret that in the company’s existing colors. Here’s an example of what that looks like:
I chose a few main colors, some neutrals, and then what I call “pop” colors…brights that will “pop” against the main colors when used as accents. I use this palette to assign colors to the designers, using their sketches and swatches as I go. Then, I use my own design sketches to fill in the color ‘gaps.’ Deciding ahead of time on a color palette ensures that the booklet will present a coordinated “line” of patterns even though we are four designers with four very different viewpoints. Assigning colors myself ensures that one color isn’t over-represented, and that there’s a nice overall theme and feel to things.
Once I decide which color(s) my sweater(s) will use, I do a swatch for each in stitch pattern to double-check my gauge, then do a big swatch for each at the raglan increase, to make sure that my stitch pattern will work with the increases that I want to do. Here are the (unblocked) swatches for the above sketch:
Sorry that pic is awful! It’s night-time. I also don’t want to reveal too much before the pattern is officially published.
Once I have those swatches, I finish my pattern and either knit the garment myself or send it to a sample knitter like my good friend Cathi. I also just found a wonderful LOCAL sample / test knitter (hi Michelle)!! I feel like the luckiest person in the world to have a local sample knitter. We can meet periodically and make sure everything is working out…online that’s so tough!
I’ve got three designs in the Fall ‘09 Mission Falls booklet, and I have two sample knitters…I’m still deciding which one to knit myself. I’m tempted to keep the worsted one and send out the two DK ones, but in reality I know that I should actually keep the more difficult one, and send out the ones I know will be trouble-free from the beginning.
Posted in Patterns, tips and tricks, Q&A | 3 Comments »
Bring back the Zen: Q&A / Short Rows in Crisp Rectangle Tunic
Monday, February 16th, 2009
Remember when Knitting was the New Yoga? And new knitters were learning in order to relax and the rest of us were like, “hey, I guess knitting is relaxing…?”
We seem to have moved away from that notion in the last few years…whether because the new knitters are now trying more difficult patterns, or what, I don’t know…but I’ve decided to TRY to bring a little of that relaxation back.
At least for a few people.
I’ve added a Q&A category to the blog called “Bring Back the Zen,” which you’ll find by clicking on the category link at left. Every so often, I’ll blog the answer one of the questions that has made its way into my email inbox.
A warning: People can sometimes be pretty worked up by the time they write these. Often, they’ve already asked these questions at knitting group or taken their knitting and the pattern to the LYS and either gotten confusing answers or no answers at all.
I’ll post the questions exactly as they appear, so that you can get the whole gist…the full effect of what I see when I first read them. Because these are questions that people want to ask me personally, most of them will relate to my own patterns, but the questions that I receive really do run the knitting gamut…so look for some tips-and-tricks-type questions, too.
I hope that (at least for some of these questions) I’m able to de-fuse the situation, help knitters to take a deep breath, take a step back, look at the problem from a new perspective, let go of the anger and frustration, and relax once again into the “zen” that is knitting.
OK, here’s the first question, in its entirety, directly from my inbox:
Hello,
I am writing about your pattern for the Crisp Rectangle Tunic Top on page 37 of fitted knits.
My understanding of a short row is that upon completion of the row, you are back where you started.
If this is correct, isn’t it impossible to have a short hip row and a short neckline row consecutively such as on page 38, rows 21 (hip short row), and 22 (neckline short row)?
I took this to the shop where I bought the yarn and was told to e-mail you as they didn’t understand either.
Thanks for your explanation.
Ann K
Ann’s question is about the Crisp Rectangle Tunic in my book Fitted Knits: 25 Projects for the Fashionable Knitter.
Dear Ann,
You’re right, in the traditional sense, a short row is a little row inserted into the knitting in order to create fullness. The most common usages of short row shaping are in bust darts and sock heels and toes. They create a little pocket for the bust (in the case of bust darts) or the heel or toe (in the case of socks.)
In this case, the knitting is turned on its side, so that the darts are adding fullness at neckline and at hip. I hadn’t seen this technique used in garment construction before, so I had to invent my own terminology for the shaping that I used. This may be why you are unsure what to do, and why your LYS also was not able help.
The instructions are worded as, “Work X sts, wrap and turn, work to end.” And then the next row is similarly worded.
Here’s how I intended for this to be interpreted:
Basically, you are zigzagging across the fabric, working a short row at one edge, working all the way across, then working one at the other edge. Once you try a few rows, you’ll get the hang of it.
I hope that helps,
Stefanie.
For more help with other Fitted Knits patterns, look at the errata, check out the Fitted Knits-Along, and the Japel Knits group on Ravelry.
Posted in Book Talk, Patterns, tips and tricks, Q&A, Bring Back the Zen | No Comments »
Double Dealing and an Online Glasses update!
Thursday, February 12th, 2009
I should probably find this picture too embarrassing to post…
Nathan caught me double dealing last night. See the look on my face? Pure embarrassment.
Wearing one of my new scarves while knitting a FOURTH one. This, my friends, is the ultimate in double dealing. A phrase coined by Sarah C’s ex-husband Sam when he caught her watching the PBS version of Pride and Prejudice while reading the book to see how closely the dialogue matched up. Often a double dealing accusation is yelled aloud, as in, “I can’t believe you’re double dealing P&P!!” or expressed with quiet sympathy and a slow shake of the head, as in, “You’re totally double dealing on that scarf.”
The one in my hands / lap is the fabulous Alchemy Bamboo one I was talking about in Kai’s Goldfish…I have 3 gorgeous hanks of pure gorgeousness. I bought these (half off!!!!) at Unravel, not knowing what I was going to make with them, but knowing that I had to have them.
And LOOK!
Please don’t think I’m knitting all these just to try to sell you on the pattern…it’s $2. Buy it or not, I’ll be fine either way, believe me! I’m just truly truly addicted. I have SO MANY single skeins of yarn that it’s ridiculous!
I am on #5:
This one I knit using a hank of the DK bamboo that I dyed.
OK, I realized today after answering two questions about online glasses shopping that I kind of left you all hanging on this one…
Both of my online glasses purchases turned out great!
LBWeyewear.com had the best customer service. I had to send their pair back for a little problem with the lenses, and they didn’t even make me send the bad pair back in…they just made up a new pair and sent it out to me within a week!
The other company I used was 39dollarglasses.com. Their lenses also had a problem and had to be sent back. I think that 39dollarglasses must get more traffic, because they have a real time chat help area. I was sitting in that chat for 5 minutes and nobody even acknowledged me. Then I called on the phone (they keep banker’s hours on the East coast, which made it hard for me to get a hold of them.) and someone said they’d send me the instructions to return my glasses, which would then be inspected, and IF they were determined t o be flawed, they’d replace them. I included a note saying that I had photographed the flaws, documented the whole thing on my website, etc., and they did replace the glasses in about a week.
SO…after an initial slow start and bout of stress, both pairs ended up to be satisfactory, and I do receive compliments on both every time I wear them.
I think that because I have such a high prescription (I’m really nearsighted, been a glasses girl since I was 7 years old) I am more likely to have issues with the lenses. If I had gotten them from a shop I might even have issues. If you have a low prescription, you’re probably less likely to run into any problems.
I also think that since they’re online, they are aware of the fact that they will be held accountable for service and quality. There are blogs, flickr groups, and web forums devoted to just that.
I highly recommend this to anyone who is looking to save a little cash. Even with my expensive prescription (I had to upgrade to the high-index lenses) I got both pairs for half of what I usually pay for just one pair. I feel very happy with these purchases, and like I really did get a deal.